Weaving Methods

The method by which fibers are woven into fabric has a big impact on the fabric's durability and drapability. Crisp or glazed finishes (discussed later) will make fabrics that normally have good drapeability drape poorly, so you have to consider any added finishes as well when you are looking at fabrics. Threads can vary in thickness from fine threads to coarse yarns.

The basic types of fabric weaves are listed below. Don't worry about trying to identify these weaves by sight. It isn't necessary. When you shop for fabrics, you will ask about specific fabric types. For instance, you might ask a fabric source if they carry chintz, not a "close plain woven cotton/polyester blend fabric with a crisp shiny finish".

• Close weave --
Fabric that has no open areas between the threads. Opposite of "open weave". Close woven fabrics have varying degrees of drapeability and durability, depending on the specific weaves and fibers used.
• Jacquard weave --
Fabric that has horizontal and vertical threads interwoven in a wide variety of complex patterns, often forming scenes or designs. These fabrics are close woven. Jacquard weave has varying drapeability and durability, depending on which fibers are used.
• Lace weave --
Fabric that has threads interwoven in a wide variety of complex patterns. These fabrics are open woven. Lace weave has good drapeability and poor durability.
• Leno weave --
Fabric that has pairs of vertical threads twisted one-half turn between each pair of horizontal threads. These fabrics are open woven. Leno weave has good drapeability and poor durability.
• Open weave --
Fabric that has open areas between the threads. Opposite of "close weave". Open weave has good drapeability and poor durability.
• Pile weave --
Plain woven fabric that has an additional horizonal or vertical thread interwoven, looped, and cut to form pile. Velvet is the most common pile weave. These fabrics are close woven. They are normally medium to heavyweight. Pile weave has poor drapeability and good durability.
• Plain weave --
Fabric that has horizontal and vertical threads woven in a simple over-and-under pattern (like a basket is woven) with no variations such as twists or knots. May be open or close woven. Close plain weave has good durability and good drapeability, unless a crisp finish has been applied which would take away its ability to drape well. Open plain weave has good drapeability and poor durability.
• Rib weave --
Fabric that has bundles of horizontal threads plain woven with single vertical threads. These fabrics are close woven. This produces a horizontal ribbed effect. Rib weave has poor drapeability and good durability.
• Sateen weave --
Fabric that has single vertical threads woven over four to eight horizontal threads and under one horizontal thread. This is the same as satin weave with the horizontal and vertical weaving pattern reversed. This weaving method gives the fabric a smooth finish and shows off bright shiny threads (such as silk) very well. These fabrics are close woven.

Sateen weave has good drapeability and relatively poor durability, although medium-weight sateen weave fabrics with a high cotton content are okay to use for seat cushions that don't receive heavy use.

• Satin weave --
Fabric that has single horizontal threads woven over four to eight vertical threads and under one vertical thread. The more threads that are woven over (example: eight rather than four), the smoother the satin is. This weaving method gives the fabric a smooth finish when and shows off bright shiny threads (such as silk) very well. These fabrics are close woven.

Satin weave has good drapeability and relatively poor durability. Most satin woven fabrics are made of fibers that have poor resistance to wear, so there really are no exceptions to the durability problem as there are with sateen woven fabrics.

• Twill --
Fabric that has single threads woven over two-and-under two in a diagonally graduating pattern. These fabrics are close woven. Close woven twill has poor drapeability and good durability.